Riesling is a grape, one of the great wine grapes, a member of the family vitis vinifera, along with Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and others. In the wine regions along the Rhine River and its tributaries, Riesling yields some of the world’s finest and most age-worthy wines. For much of the last two hundred years the top Riesling wines obtained the highest prices on the world market. The great estate wines of the Rheingau and Mosel have been among the most collectable (and until recently, the most collected) of the world’s "boutique" wines. Now, with the largest world market for premium wines in history, Riesling is out of favor but poised for a comeback. Great Rieslings abound from Germany, Austria, New Zealand, Australia, and the United States. While some of the finest Rieslings are expensive there are wonderful examples at reasonable prices.
Our top selling everyday Riesling is from a growers’ association at the town of Erbach in the Rheingau, the Rhine River’s greatest region. “Winzer von Erbach” Riesling 2007 ($12.99 – Liter Bottle) is a perfectly fine light wine with a fresh, slightly floral taste and a clean natural-fruit finish. This is great, classic white for casual hot weather gatherings.
Aside from our bargain Rheingau offering, our best selling German wines come from the Melsheimer estate at the town of Reil on the Mosel (the Rhine River’s most prominent tributary). We have enjoyed a full range of Melsheimer wines over the years. Right now, we are featuring two distinctly different “late harvest” Rieslings from their estate grapes. Melsheimer Riesling Spätlese 1997 ($24.99) provides a rare opportunity to sample mature Riesling, elegant and sweet, with an aftertaste of apples and lemon. Perfect for an elegant fish dish, or herbed pork or chicken. Melsheimer Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Riesling Spätlese “Schäf” 2007 ($35.99) is simply more of everything. The grapes from a tiny, precipitous, rocky section of the vineyard were hand sorted for extra fruit concentration in the juice. The wine underwent slow fermentation in individual barrels in the winery’s own cellar. This is richer, thicker, sweeter, and more intense wine. Robust and lively, a beautiful after dinner treat.
Germany’s near neighbor, Alsace, provides France’s great Riesling wines. Here the sweet examples are outnumbered by flinty, mineral-laden dry wines. Our perpetual favorite is the excellent Trimbach Riesling 2006 ($17.99). There are cheaper Alsace Rieslings and there are fancier ones (Trimbach themselves make special editions of great merit) but there is no better value dry Riesling for aperitif or main course.
Yes, of course there are U. S. Rieslings of interest. Bridgeview “Blue Moon” Oregon Riesling 2007 ($10.99) is good, honest, easy going Riesling with just a bit of sweetness, an excellent companion for grilled fish or chicken (or fried chicken for that matter). “Eroica” Riesling 2007 ($25.99) is a serious effort from the joint venture between Dr. Loosen of Germany and Chateau Ste. Michelle of Washington. Made with Columbia Valley fruit this robust, youthful wine tickles the tongue with a hint of effervescence and finishes with typical Riesling acidity. This is back-porch wine. Hogue Cellars of Washington make several Rieslings. We feature Hogue Late Harvest White Riesling 2007 ($10.99). The quality of this sweet Riesling contradicts its price. Rich, Sweet, but no cloying this is a mate for fruit, cold meats, and cheese or great for after dinner.
Australia and New Zealand also provide fine Riesling. Reilly’s “Barking Mad” Clare Valley (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($14.99) sports a typically whimsical name but provides fine quality at a modest price. Citrus and flowers on the nose pleasantly dry finish, this is a great mealtime wine. Kim Crawford Marlborough (NZ) Dry Riesling 2007 ($17.99) is dry just as it says. Great with seafood (try shellfish) or barbecue. Greenhough Nelson (NZ) Riesling 2006 ($19.99) is spectacular in its honeyed aroma and rich texture. Not quite dry, this one is great with herbed dishes and seasoned meats.
And there are many, many more.
06/09 |