All
wine ages. Wine is very much a living thing and nothing can be
done to keep it from aging. Furthermore, most old wine is all
the worse for age. This is probably the most misunderstood concept
in the world of wine. Some great wines, especially from great
vintages, are eminently collectable and age for the better. Certain
big reds begin life a bit brash and harsh, and only yield their
optimum style and character after a couple of years in the winery’s
cellar (often in barrel) and decade or more in the bottle. Certain
crisp dry whites begin life simple, fruity, and tart, but age
to marvelous complexity over 3-10 years in bottle. The finest
sweet wines can live seemingly forever. Collectors pay a fortune
for 40-50 year old French Sauternes, German Rheingau Auslese,
and Portuguese Port. HOWEVER these wines, and all the other age-worthy
wines in the world put together, represent a tiny proportion of
the wine made every year. 90% of the wine for sale today is at
its best (or past it) when it reaches the consumer.
Virtually all white, rosé, sparkling wine, and red wine
on the market today is on a downward quality trend within a year
or two of reaching the market. The exceptions that gain complexity
and grace with age are so important, and often so precious, that
we forget that they are exceptions and not the rule. A simple
rule for almost all the commercial wine on the U.S. market is:
“drink the youngest available”. Even a great vintage
of ordinary table wine is likely to be tired and worn out within
3-5 years. It can’t be stressed too much: for almost all
wine, youth is a virtue. Furthermore, with advances in grape growing,
and modern winemaking trends, even age-worthy wines can be delightful
when young. -So, what should a wine-lover-collect for future consumption?
The first, and most obvious rule is to stock what you like. It
is foolish to hoard wine simply because of its repute. Regardless
of traditional rankings and contemporary reviews, no wine is guaranteed
to please. You must suit your own taste. Start by having a reasonable
supply of your favorites, proportionate to your consumption. Whatever
you use regularly should be in supply sufficient to fill your
needs for a month or two. There is great comfort in knowing that
something that suits is on hand and ready to serve. Buy wines
by the case (most merchants will offer a discount on 12 or more
bottles – a tax free windfall that far exceeds the interest
on savings). But never set aside more than a year’s worth
of any ordinary wine. Rotate your stock. Make sure to use the
oldest of a type first.
Once your day-to-day needs are met, then follow your taste and
experiment with longer lived wines. Stick to your own taste. Seek
the advice of knowledgeable friends whose likes resemble yours,
or consult a merchant (who has every reason to match your taste
in hopes of future sales). Don’t blindly follow the popular
press. Remember that Wine Spectator and its kin have to put out
a magazine every couple of weeks, and each issue must feature
brand new “must haves”. They really don’t have
to please you with their suggestions. They are “just out
to capture your dime”.
It is likely that the best examples of almost any type of wine
will age well and gain complexity. Even the Beaujolais region,
famous for light reds best drunk young, has “Cru”
bottlings. These are the finest of the region and often reach
their peak about three years after the vintage. A few top Beaujolais
estates age well for a decade or more. Whatever the category test
your own preferences. One person may think a wine is perfect at
age five, other folks may think it is still too young, and yet
others may think it is over the hill. Even with well-established
collectables opinions differ as to how long to keep even the greatest
vintages.
The ideal approach is to buy wines that have pleased in the past
and experiment. Purchase wines that you think have aging potential
in reasonable volume. Then try a bottle now and then to check
progress. With lighter whites and lighter reds six month intervals
are often revealing. With heavier reds and dessert wines a year
or two between trials may be in order. In any case, when a wine
seems perfect, don’t hesitate to drink the remaining stash.
Remember, the objective is to enjoy the wine throughout its lifetime,
not to hoard it until it is past its prime.
Richard deBondt has been President of Northampton Wines, a
Greenville retail store, since its founding in 1975. In 2003 he
and his associates opened “The Wine Café” featuring
fine dining, and wines to match.
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