No
family wine venture has greater claim to aristocracy than Antinori’s.
Winemaking and vineyard management have been part of the family
business since 1385. By the early 1500’s the Antinori
family was one of the wealthiest in the rich merchant society
of Florence. Since that time the family has been influential
in matters financial, agricultural, and political. In the modern
era, Piero Antinori (the current Marchese) and his famous firm
have transformed their traditional wines of the Chianti region
into modern expressions of what is finest in advanced winemaking,
while preserving, and even strengthening, the Tuscan nature
of their produce. Every sort of wine from crisp bottle-fermented
bubbly, to fortified dessert wine, appears in the firm’s
current portfolio. White wine production has been increased
and modernized. Vineyard holdings have expanded from the region
around Florence to the far reaches of Italy and even to joint
venture projects on distant continents. Still, red wine from
Tuscany, mostly from the historic region of Chianti is Antinori’s
forte.
Santa Cristina is the firm’s most abundant, readily available,
and inexpensive Tuscan red. Made largely with the region’s
traditional grape, Sangiovese, with a bit of Merlot blended
in, Santa Cristina departs markedly from the ancient traditions
of Chianti. The wine is fermented at a cool, controlled temperature,
extracting good color while preserving fresh fruit flavor. Contact
with the skins is moderated to give a wine lighter and faster
maturing than the norm. The wine is bottled young and should
be drunk in its youth. At around $11, Santa Cristina is a beautiful
wine, tasty and well suited to everyday meals.
Villa Antinori is an historic Chianti name that has been modernized
over recent decades. No longer called Chianti, but rather simply
IGT Toscana, this wine also deviates from the Chianti formula.
Made from about 60% traditional Sangiovese, Villa Antinori now
includes a healthy dose of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in
the blend. A touch of Syrah is even included. Heavier than Santa
Cristina to begin with, the Villa blend is subjected to additional
skin contact and a bit of aging in small oak barrels. Deep in
color, heavier and softer in the finish than traditional Chianti,
this wine seems aimed straight at the typical American consumer.
A bargain at just over $20.
Peppoli is a genuine Chianti Classico and “estate grown”
at that. 90% Sangiovese is “complicated” with 10%
Merlot and Syrah. Moderate skin contact during fermentation
is followed by less than a year in large Slavonian oak casks.
A tiny portion is aged in smaller American oak barrels for a
bit of seasoning. This substantial red also matures early but
is robust to match the heaviest fare. True Chianti for around
$20.
Tenute Marchese Antinori follows the strict guidelines for Chianti
Classico Riserva. Again 90% Sangiovese, this time prime selections
from several Antinori properties, the “Marchese”
gets extra skin contact and longer fermentation followed by
extended aging in small French oak barrels. The finished wine
is aged an additional year or more in bottle before release.
A genuine “Reserve” wine in every sense, offering
good aging potential in a friendly, well balanced dry red. More
austere than most new world wines, this is a great wine for
an elegant dinner, for under $40.
Badia a Passignano Riserva is the pinnacle of the art of Chianti.
100% estate grown Sangiovese, given a long fermentation (partly
in small upright wooden containers), the young wine combines
richness and power. Two years in small French oak soften the
finish and add complex flavors to rival the world’s finest
reds. Less fruity than California Cabernet, less tannic than
red Bordeaux, this caliber of Chianti has power and grace, all
for less than $50. The excellent 98 vintage is still available
locally and offers the rare opportunity to sample a rather mature
wine of great stature.
But wait, there’s more. Antinori produces wine in the
coastal region of Bolgheri and in the hill town of Montalcino,
-perhaps another day!
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