Every meal begins someplace. Of course, sometimes folks just dig in. Handing your neighbor a beer while you finish grilling his hamburger may suffice as a greeting. It’s friendly enough, but it would hardly be a fitting prelude to a graceful evening of fine cuisine. No, with fine food and pleasant surroundings, an “aperitif” is in order. There are many traditional starters. In the U.S, in bygone days, the cocktail was the norm. Spirits producers now struggle to invent sensational new mixtures to win back the public. These concoctions may succeed on the “liquor is quicker” argument, but they are hardly the way to prepare the palate and the digestion for the coming meal. Fortified wines such as white Port, dry Sherry, and Vermouth hold favor in their various countries of origin. But these are still a bit heavy and assertive as prelude. Something lighter and fresher is desirable. Wines with lighter tastes, lower alcohol, and stimulating fruit acidity are the ticket. Fortunately good choices abound.

The most elegant aperitif is Champagne. The traditional French sparkler fits the bill on all counts. Complex and elegant, Champagne graces any occasion while it stimulates the palate. Brut Champagne is light and dry with moderate alcohol. It combines lively fruit acidity (the best of any sparkling wine) with creamy bubbly overtones. True Champagne is as refreshing as it is elegant.

Champagne is not the only sparkling game in town. Almost every winemaking region has its sparklers. Sekt from Germany, Cava from Spain, Spumante or Prosecco from Italy, and our own domestic Sparkling Wines (which, unfortunately, have no name of their own) all have their charms. In all cases Brut or at least very dry versions are best as Aperitifs. Fine sparkling wine can help make any evening a special occasion.

Sauvignon Blanc often makes a great aperitif. The grape can make lean dry whites, and it can have just the right herbal component to prepare the palate for a savory meal. California’s producers have more and more abandoned the highly oaked, intensely heavy versions of Sauvignon Blanc in favor of lighter crisper wines more suited to sipping before dinner. White Bordeaux, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume head the line-up from France. The southern hemisphere is contributing more and more good Sauvignon Blanc especially from South Africa and New Zealand. Many recent arrivals from New Zealand display up-front fruit acid and robust mouth-filling flavor while downplaying the herbal tendencies. These seem perfect for warm weather entertaining.

Chardonnay can certainly hold its own as an aperitif, but beware the extra buttery, oaky, high alcohol versions. As successful as these wines may be in wine reviews, they lack delicacy. An aperitif should engage the senses and prepare the palate, not stun and sedate your guests. More and more domestic Chardonnays have been lightened up and can work quite well, just beware the blockbusters. Most European Chardonnay’s are made in the lighter vein, as are the increasingly available “unoaked” versions from Australia.

Gewurztraminer can offer fantastic aperitif wines. Many domestic producers offer “early harvest” versions that are light and lean. Here just a touch of sugar might be in order to offset the natural bitterness of the grape. Not surprisingly, Germany and Alsace offer many fine examples of this grape. Avoid the late harvest versions. They are more suited to after dinner.

Riesling can be the ideal aperitif. The grape has a natural tendency to crisp acidity and refreshing crisp flavors. German Rieslings, especially those labeled “Kabinett”, are often just short of dry, lively and low in alcohol. Fine Rieslings are also coming to us from Australia and New Zealand. Here again, the “Early Harvest” versions of domestic Rieslings suit the purpose well.

Dry Rosés are wonderful aperitifs. Almost every red wine region makes some kind of light crisp rosé, but Spain and Southern France are the champions in this category. U.S. producers are offering more and more rosé in this style. With months of warm weather ahead of us, rosé offers an option for serving straight through a casual meal.

Then there are wines made from Cortese, Pinot Grigio, Malvasia and a host of other white wine grapes. Oh well, –Perhaps another day.

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