Cal-Ital
is a "buzzword" in California winemaking. It’s
a rather new one, but it represents a fast growing industry trend
with a long heritage. It looks back to an important facet of California’s
mixed cultural (and agricultural) background, and it keeps pace
with some of the newest trends in winemaking around the world.
The California wine industry has mixed roots. The whole thing
is an import, and various elements arrived from all over Europe.
California’s earliest winemaking influences were largely
Spanish, beginning with the mission churches. Very recently, French
grape types have dominated. Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot,
and Pinot Noir, are decidedly dominant in today’s market.
The Italian influence is more evident in the family names that
abound in all the important wine districts. Sebastiani, Martini,
Mondavi, Seghesio, and Pedroncelli are just a few of the more
conspicuous Italian names in California winemaking. From the 1870’s
to the 1920’s, Italian families migrated to the west coast
in great numbers. Lately, another group of Italian names is getting
increased attention. Aglianico, Barbera, Charbono, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo,
Sangiovese, Malvasia, Moscato, and Pinot Grigio are all grape
varietal names with growing importance in California winemaking.
Over 150 California wineries produce varietal wines from Italian
grape types. Their efforts are aided by current interest in food
and wine from Italy, and by a general interest in variety at the
dinner table. "Cal Ital" wines are important and their
importance will grow.
Plantings of wine grapes are expanding rapidly in California.
Thousands of acres of all the important varietals have been planted
each year. Grapes of Italian heritage are making significant gains.
While these plantings are dwarfed by the acreage of, say, Chardonnay,
they represent a significant trend and a divergence of style.
Barbera has claim to the most wide-spread use among Cal-Ital grapes.
With upwards of 15,000 acres planted, Barbera is almost abundant.
Many experienced (older) wine-drinkers will remember the remarkable,
balanced, age-worthy Barbera wines from Louis Martini and Sebastiani
in the 1970’s. They were wines of grace and balance. Today,
more than 50 California wineries have Barbera commercially available.
A number of others make the wine in small batches with limited
distribution. Barbera tends to yield wines with moderate tannins
and a bit more acid than most California reds, refreshing wine
for the table with a light finish. In the Greenville area Barbera
from Chameleon, Renwood, and Seghesio are commonly available.
Others appear from time to time. In any case, Barbera is the Cal-Ital
with the best track record. Try these wines with most any Italian
cuisine or casual food. They can be a refreshing break from Cabernet
Sauvignon.
Sangiovese is the hottest trend in Cal-Ital wines. In less than
a decade, recorded planting in Sangiovese went from less than
500 to about 4,000 acres. The astounding popularity of Italian
wine from Tuscany has made this previously little known grape
a sure sell. In California, Sangiovese often yields slightly more
supple, heavier wine. For those who favor California wine to begin
with, the added body and depth are a plus. Miner, Benessere, Seghesio,
Flora Springs, Valley of the Moon, and Renwood have all shipped
the wine to Greenville. Ferrari-Carano has had great success with
"Siena", a blend with Cabernet and Merlot in the manner
of a "Super Tuscan". Amethyst sends us a unique Carneros-grown
blend of Sangiovese and Nebbiolo (the grape of Barolo in Italy).
Although Amethyst’s production is tiny, the producers have
been kind to Greenville with this highly allocated item.
Cal-Ital whites are less abundant but equally interesting. Arneis,
Malvasia Bianca, Pinot Grigio (Pinot Gris) and Moscato all make
their way here from time to time. Swanson, Wild Horse, Seghesio
are among the wineries whose products are currently available
in Greenville. Although most Cal-Ital whites reaching us are dry,
sweet versions of Moscato are not rare. Youth is a virtue in these
fresh fruity wines.
For background on Cal-Ital grapes, wineries, and wines produced,
check on line with www.cal-italia.com an excellent and even handed
producers’ web site.
Originally
published in "The Greenville Journal", June 22 - 28, 2001 in "From
The Vine" column, author, Richard deBondt.
Revised
4/05
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