The
wine region of Carneros is distinguished in many ways. Carneros
growers proudly point out that it was the first AVA (American
Viticultural Area) established on the basis of grape growing attributes
and not political boundaries. Although the region has a winemaking
history of almost 200 years, virtually all the vineyards have
been planted in the last 30 years. More than any other region
in California, Carneros has established a regional style. Pinot
Noir reds and Chardonnay whites have come to dominate in the Carneros
vineyards and an intense, clean, modern style for each of these
grapes has developed. In contrast to this very well established
and very successful specialization, a number of grape types and
wine varieties are blooming in the region’s rolling hills.
Carneros Merlot has proved effective for quite a number of growers
and wineries. Sparkling wines of superior quality rely on the
crisp flavorful Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Carneros to create
many of California’s top bubbly trademarks.
The region called Los Carneros (or just plain Carneros) is named
for the sheep that have grazed there from the days of Mexican
governance in coastal California. The area is nestled down close
to the northern reaches of the great bay system above San Francisco,
specifically the San Pablo Bay. Proximity to the bay and the Pacific
governs the microclimates found in Carneros. The most obvious
effect is the cooler summertime temperature. On a hot summer afternoon,
Carneros can be 20 degrees cooler than the upper reaches of Napa
and Sonoma Counties. This causes the fruit to ripen more slowly
and to retain higher acidity (lower ph being key to sharper fruit
flavors). To fruit in ripening stages, 85° is very different
from 100° or higher. The bay moderates the weather on the
other end of the scale too. This is especially important in the
spring when early flowering vines, especially Pinot Noir and Chardonnay,
are protected from frost at their most delicate stages. The moist
air around the bay blankets the vineyards. While this hardly feels
toasty warm to people, it provides protection for the crops when
they need it most. This all-important element defines Carneros.
This is the reason the region includes portions of two counties,
Napa and Sonoma.
For folks in Greenville the best-known Carneros winery is Schug.
Walter Schug made some of California’s most prestigious
wines, at the Joseph Phelps winery (including “Insignia”).
In spite of his success at Phelps, Schug bought Carneros property,
planted vineyards, and built a winery all to make Pinot Noir.
He judged Carneros to be the place for a man bent on making Pinot
Noir. Of course, his winery makes a variety of other products,
especially Chardonnay. Still, it is Pinot Noir that brought him
to Carneros.
Other pioneers in the region were BV, Louis Martini, Buena Vista,
and Mont St. John. These wineries planted vineyards to ensure
themselves a source for the distinctive Carneros fruit. Acacia,
Bouchaine, Carneros Creek, and Saintsbury are notable among wineries
that have located in the region. Robert Mondavi, Joseph Phelps,
Clos du Val, Sinskey, and Pine Ridge are all non-Carneros wineries
producing products made exclusively from Carneros fruit. Some
own significant acreage in the region. A whole host of other producers
use Carneros grapes in varying quantities to help shape their
wines, especially Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Although Pinot Noir and Chardonnay constitute about 60% of the
wine bearing the Carneros designation, Sparkling wine is a very
significant to the region. Gloria Ferrer and Domaine Carneros
both specialize in sparkling wine. They located in Carneros for
the purpose. Other sparkling wine producers seek out Carneros
fruit for their crisp, dry base wines. Good acidity is crucial
to fine bubbly and Carneros is the king of crisp fruit. All told,
perhaps 20% of all Carneros fruit goes into sparkling wine.
The designation “Carneros” is one of the most revealing
terms that can appear on a California wine. It is one indication
of origin that hints strongly at style and quality.
Richard
deBondt has been President of Northampton Wines, a Greenville
retail store, since its founding in 1975. He conducts weekly wine
tastings and related presentations. He is also a long time performer
with the Greenville Symphony Orchestra.
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