The family name Champy is associated with the history of fine
wine in Burgundy from at least 1682. Documents from that year
record Zaccharie Champy as master cooper in Beaune, the heart
of all things vinous. From 1720 there is written history of
a “wine trade” founded by Edme Champy. In time,
Domaine Champy came to own magnificent property in the center
of Beaune where it produced, finished, and bottled wines and
conducted the business of their sale. Through the 18th and 19th
centuries the firm acquired magnificent properties including
some among the premier and grand crus of the region. Further,
Champy vinified the wines of some of the region's most illustrious
vineyard owners and represented even more in international markets.
However the scourges of phylloxera, war, and economic depression
which troubled all of France, and perhaps internal torpor as
well, proved devastating to Champy. On the death of the last
descendants of the Champy family the venerable buildings in
Beaune were in disrepair and the fine vineyard properties were
sold off to various buyers.
In 1990 Henri Meurgey a winemaker and broker purchased the Champy
firm and its historic buildings in Beaune. He along with his
son, Pierre, set about restoring the old site, while building
new facilities specifically designed for modern production of
Burgundy’s classic wines. The new Maison Champy is being
assembled from diverse properties controlled by the Meurgeys.
Additionally, wines are once again produced under the Champy
label from the vineyards of some of Burgundy’s most prominent
sites, owned by independent growers. The stated goal of the
firm is to restore the Burgundy tradition of letting each wine
speak for its own vineyard source, rather than to “modernize”
the wines or create a new house style.
Pierre Meurgey recently brought a sampling of his company’s
current releases on a visit to Greenville. The excellent red
and white wines sampled provided evidence of great success.
The wines showed their individuality from vineyard to vineyard
and from vintage to vintage. These are noteworthy, traditional
wines that should be of interest to any Burgundy lover. Moreover,
they are eminently well crafted to serve at the table, lean
and dry, perfect with fine food. What is remarkable is not that
the Meurgeys have succeeded, given their expertise and their
resources. What is most surprising and gratifying, is that a
number of these excellent wines are now available in South Carolina.
Aleph Wines, an importer and distributor, has inventories of
wines from the 2002 and 2003 vintage. This is the result of
considerable confidence in our market. It is also dependent
on considerable foresight on Aleph’s part, since most
of Champy’s wines from these vintages are sold out in
Europe.
The white wines are of markedly different characters, given
the nature of the two years. The wines of 2002 are lean, angular,
and mineral-laden, with a very crisp finish. A 2002 Rully Blanc
($22) was vibrant with flavors of apple and citrus. A 2003 Pernand
Vergelesses Blanc ($30) was rich and full, but not buttery and
sweet as are many California chardonnays. This is a big luxurious
white that rivals famous wines at four times the price. Also
on hand were big rich (and, in their youth, somewhat strident)
2003 Corton-Charlemagne and Puligny-Montrachet “Les Enseigneres”.
These “collector’s wines” bear out their famous
sources in style, quality, and price (about $120 and $80 respectively).
Anyone who prizes age-worthy white should search these out.
The reds dazzle with pinot noir fruit and elegance. From the
classic 2002 vintage we sampled a beautiful Auxey Duresses,
which apparently sold out immediately at $35. This was prototypical
red Burgundy all finesse and grace with a clean light finish.
The stars of the tasting were the 2003 Nuits St. Georges “Aux
St. Juliens” ($52), the 2003 Chambolle Musigny “Bussiere”
($53), and the 2003 Gevrey Chambertin “Vieilles Vignes”,
fine examples of the warmest growing season in modern history.
Each reflects its origins, the soil and slope of its home vineyard,
but each also expresses this most unusual rich, ample vintage.
There is no doubt that these are truly great wines and “must-haves”
for any student or collector of this historic region.
Even on the moderate end of the spectrum Champy has two worthy
reds from 2003. The house produced a truly fine Cote de Beaune
Villages ($25) made from several different sites under their
control. Though this is a regional appellation, and can make
no specific claim of special terroir, it still evokes the region
of Beaune in its style and quality. A fine surprise was the
2003 Bourgogne Rouge “Signature” which at $20 offers
great pinot noir character in a somewhat less traditional style.
Still clean and dry, this wine has softer character and immediate
appeal. This may not be the wine to cellar for a decade, but
it is a bargain in the rarefied field of fine red Burgundy.
None of these wines is in large supply. In several instances
barely 100 cases were made, but they are well worth seeking
out while they are available.
07/05
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