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Côtes du Rhône

The wines of the Rhône Valley, from Vienne to Avignon, have been culturally and economically important since Roman times. The region is filled with imposing structures now 2,000 years old. Serious and systematic cultivation of grapes for wine production dates back just as far. Red, white, and rosé wines of the region are among the most long established and highly regulated of all Europe. The abundance and diversity of Rhône wines make for intriguing exploration. The generally modest prices make for value for money.

Most American consumers are familiar with wines coming from the southern Rhône, simply labeled “Côtes du Rhône”. These wines may be red, white, or rosé and often sell for about $12. Not all inexpensive wines are good value (some are indifferent and some are bad), but the everyday wines of the Rhône are bargains more often than not. These wines are regulated as to quality and authenticity of origin. In contrast to mass marketed “trademark” wines which are often supported by little other than packaging and advertising, Côtes du Rhône have millennia of tradition and evolution behind them. In many cases these wines come from famous firms whose top wines fetch high prices from enthusiasts around the world. The region is filled with excellent wine producers and they have plenty of material to work with. There are no less than thirteen accredited grapes in the Côtes du Rhône, and growers have considerable latitude in choosing their plantings and the final blends for their wines.

Red Côtes du Rhônes are made principally from Grenache with Syrah and Mourvèdre, which lead the host of others that may be used. Due largely to the warm growing conditions of the region, these reds are often richer, deeper in color, sturdier than most European reds. Because they generally have a bit more alcohol than most others, Rhône reds are softer and less tart to the taste. It is therefore no surprise that these, among all French reds, tend to please California wine enthusiasts. They are as adaptable as a red could be. They are excellent with steaks but are generally not too overpowering for lighter dishes such as chicken or pork. The best vintages of even the most common Rhône reds are up to a few years cellaring, some will reward a decade of careful storage.

The whites of the Rhône are less abundant and less well known in the U.S. They are often mostly Grenache Blanc, but can contain Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Viognier. Don’t shy away just because you have not heard of most of these grapes. They are strains of good standing and ancient heritage. Although Rhône whites are dry, they are seldom as austere as their white Burgundy neighbors to the north. The charm of these wines is in their youth. They seldom seem to warrant cellaring. Light enough to serve as an aperitif, these are whites that can accompany most any fish or light meat dish.

Côtes du Rhône rosé can be truly charming. Lacking the sweet finish of many U.S. rosés (or blush wines if you will), these are admirable dinner wines for hot weather. They too make fine aperitifs when heavier reds are about to be featured. As with the whites, youth is a virtue in these rosé wines.

The southern Rhône has its star performers. The best known of these is Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Both red and white wine from this historic sub-section conform to the descriptions given above. The simplest view would be that these are merely the most famous examples of the type. However, the wines are often set apart by their vineyard terrain, incredibly rocky and mineral-filled (holding the summer heat well into the night). Furthermore, the traditions of red winemaking here dictate longer skin contact and considerable aging in oak before bottling. The finest Chateauneuf-du-Pape is massive, dark, and exceedingly long lived. Lighter, less consequential examples also exist. They resemble other Côtes du Rhônes (unfortunately, at twice the price).

There is a whole series of prominent village names worth seeking out, less known but equally formidable. The most commonly found are Carianne, Vacqueyras, and Gigondas. Lirac and Tavel are village names most often associated with rosé. And then, there are the famous wines of the northern Rhône –but they are topics for another day.

6/05

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