The Stump Jump gives a clue to the style in play at Australia’s
d’Arenberg winery. The company’s most reasonably
priced (about $12) red and white wines go by that fanciful
name. A Stump Jump, it turns out, is a special plow used in
fields that have not been cleared of stubborn roots. The plow
has a mechanism for crawling over obstacles and moving on,
an important ability in the early days of Australia’s
agricultural expansion. D’Arenberg uses the name for
blended wines of fine fresh flavor and great value for money.
The white is a unique blend of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc,
and Marsanne, combining the famed grapes of Alsace, Bordeaux,
and the Cotes du Rhone. The freshness of the three varietals
is preserved by gentle pressing and cool fermentation. The
“honeyed-flower” aroma of Riesling is complicated
by the herbal nature of Sauvignon Blanc, and the mineral flavors
of Marsanne. Although the first sense of the wine comes from
its robust aroma, the finish is clean and dry. Without the
high alcohol or heavy character of certain Chardonnays, this
is an “all purpose” white if there ever was one.
The red is just as wonderful, although a bit more traditional,
using the principle red Cotes du Rhone grapes: Grenache (mostly),
Shiraz (read Syrah if you prefer the French name) and Mourvedre
(one of the Rhone valley’s most exciting but least known
grapes). Although the wine is said to have undergone oak barrel
maturation, the round red-fruit flavor of the grapes of origin
dominates the taste. Although dry, this red is easy going
and grapey. Stump Jump, red or white, is a grand trademark
for excellent everyday wine.
McLaren Vale, just south of Adelaide, is home to the d’Arenberg
winery and source for virtually all of its grapes. Even the
Stump Jump wines bear the McLaren Vale appellation rather
than the nearly ubiquitous and almost all inclusive “Southeastern
Australia” which identifies (but not very narrowly)
most of the Australian wines that reach us. This McLaren Vale
growing district, home to about 50 wineries, seems to suit
a wide variety of different grapes, even though its most famous
products are often made with Shiraz. Although the source of
d’Arenberg grapes is specific and its production is
moderate, the number of fancifully named products is large.
This makes finding some of the limited production wines a
bit frustrating at times. Different wines from different grapes
and different vineyard sites are the rule for d’Arenberg.
This contrasts with so much of the Australian wine imported
to the U.S. which seems to name the grape and the country
and attempt nothing dramatic or individualistic.
Two distinctive Rhone-Variety whites are currently available
locally. The Hermit Crab ($17) is a blend of Marsanne and
Viognier that bursts with flowery aroma and finishes dry.
The Money Spider ($23) is made with Roussane, a grape prominent
in some of finest whites of the Rhone Valley in France. Herbal
and dry, with a crisp finish, this is something special, a
wine to pair with elegant dinners of fish or fowl.
Shiraz is king among the finer reds of d’Arenberg. D’Arry’s
Original ($20) is a blend of Shiraz with Grenache which provides
full bodied texture and rich flavor. Youthful and vigorous,
d’Arry’s is the perfect wine for red meats, especially
barbecue. The Footbolt ($20) is straight-ahead Shiraz with
deeper character and a bit less robust fruit. This one will
match steaks and chops and is great with roast lamb. The Laughing
Magpie ($36) is a huge hit and not just because of its attractive
name. The wine is Shiraz with just a tiny bit of Viognier
(yes the white grape) blended in for pizzazz. This is particularly
deep and intense Shiraz, but hardly tannic and restrained.
The Viognier adds fantastic aroma and a bit of prickle to
the taste. This is a red so luscious as to require no food
at all for companionship. On the other hand the wine can stand
up to the most highly seasoned dishes with ease. At present,
the top of the Shiraz hierarchy from d’Arenberg is The
Dead Arm ($64) a fine wine by any standard, special batches
of the finest fruit, long-fermented on the skins for greater
extraction, and aged in small oak barrels. Although tasty
when young, The Dead Arm will surely reward a bit of cellaring.
The Derelict Vineyard ($35) was just what the name implies,
an old vines Grenache vineyard that had been long abandoned.
With its recent rehabilitation, the Derelict has shown true
character and yields deep complex wine suitable to appear
at any table. The High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) is
more forward and fruity than most fine Cabernet. It shares
the style of all the d’Arenberg reds with just a bit
of the expected herbal character of the varietal.
Remember, any d’Arenberg wine may be hard to find, but
then, any d’Arenberg wine is a good find.
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