De Loach Vineyards has made the news lately
by filing for
Chapter 11 protection while reorganizing. While this is news indeed,
and a sign of turbulent times in the wine industry, it is certainly
not the end of the story. De Loach has good reason to expect a
full recovery from its current financial difficulties. Michael
De Loach addresses the situation with a personal message on the
winery’s web site. For consumers, the good news is that
an abundance of premium wine from this classic winery is available
in our market, much of it at bargain prices. Long term, we can
all look forward to the winery’s renewed concentration on
core products from its home region, the Russian River Valley.
The winery is 60 miles north of San Francisco and a few miles
west of Sonoma County’s largest city, Santa Rosa. Estate
vineyards are spread about the Russian River viticultural region
offering a variety of conditions for optimum quality in different
grape types. As the winery conscientiously reduces its portfolio,
it will abandon some marginal varieties and some broad market
products which, good as they may have been, failed to reflect
true regional character. The plan is to concentrate on fewer types
made from fruit sourced in the heart of one of California’s
finest growing regions.
Russian River Chardonnay has long been a De Loach focus. The 2000
vintage currently available hits the mark for both style and quality.
Fermented partially in 60-gallon French oak barrels and partially
in neutral stainless steel, the wine preserves much of the precious
fresh-fruit character for which the region is known. Neither extra
buttery nor overly oaky (about 8 months in barrel), the wine is
leaner and more adaptable to the dinner table than some California
heavyweights. This is the perfect wine for scallops, shrimp, lobster,
trout, or any of the more delicate seafood offerings. With 42,000
cases made, De Loach Chardonnay is affordable as well as adaptable.
De Loach Estate Bottled Zinfandel is another Russian River triumph.
Although it portrays all of the richness (14.5% alcohol) and varietal
fruit flavor of a big California red, it has the austere character
and long complex finish of a classic age-worthy dinner wine. The
grapes come from old vines vineyards, some over 100, which tend
to give low yield and great quality. The depth of fruit was tempered
with 9 months in American oak barrels to give a good balance of
vanilla and oak scent to what otherwise might have been an aggressively
fruit-scented red. With claret-like attributes this is an excellent
wine to age a bit for a special red meat dinner. In its relative
youth (the 2000 vintage is on the market), the wine is zesty enough
for seasoned meats or casual cookouts. De Loach estate Zin is
a great buy since it stands up well to any of the “boutique”
Zins selling for 2 or 3 times the money.
Sections of the Russian River are perfect for Pinot Noir and De
Loach has capitalized on this in their estate vineyards. The 2000
vintage was harvested well into October, benefiting from the cool
micro-climate and extra “hang-time” giving fruit of
extra ripeness and depth. Unusually deep and rich for Pinot Noir
(a famously light textured varietal), this wine was tempered with
9 months is French oak barrels. With earthy overtones, deep cherry-fruit
character, and a spicey finish, this is a meal-time Pinot to serve
with Turkey, roast chicken, pork and even with heavier red meats.
De Loach Estate Cabernet 1999 comes exclusively from 30-year-old
vines from the single “Los Amigos” ranch vineyard.
The winery tends to make this Cab unblended, so that the structure
is leaner than many, and the herbal varietal character of Cabernet
itself is dominant. Fermented in small batches and aged in oak
(part French/part American) for about a year and a half, this
robust wine combines spice and mint in the mix with rich red-fruit
body. Although not abundant, De Loach Cabernet is readily available
in our area and a bargain for pairing with red meat, game and
other robust dishes. With a few years in the cellar this Cabernet
will mellow nicely for a future special occasion.
Vineyard select offerings, reserve selections and a few older
vintages round out the array of De Loach offerings currently available
in our area. Several restaurants and retailers are featuring them
at good prices. Make a point of trying a few. You will be richly
rewarded.
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the De
Loach web site
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