Dutton-Goldfield

“Dutton Ranch” is a name quite familiar to lovers of California wines. For decades, some of the finest wines of Sonoma County have proudly proclaimed their origins in the Russian River/Sonoma Coast vineyards of the Dutton family. The first of these vineyards was planted in 1964. Soon thereafter the expanding operation focused on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, stressing the cool climate afforded by proximity to the Pacific and the Russian River Valley. The family holdings have expanded to over sixty plots, similar in size, diversity, and quality to the various parcels of famous growers in Burgundy. The top quality fruit of these vineyards has contributed to the success of many Napa and Sonoma wineries. Several have reserved the Dutton Ranch fruit for special bottlings.

Steve Dutton grew up in the vineyards and has worked full time in their management since 1987. In that time he has nurtured the various parcels and their unique aptitudes. He has also worked with dozens of important winemakers, supplying the style and quality needed for their top products. Among the longstanding relationships Steve and his grapes developed is one with Dan Goldfield, a superbly successful winemaker at Schramsberg, La Crema, and Hartford Court. When the 80’s and 90’s demonstrated the ability of the cooler regions of Sonoma to offer up top quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Goldfield and other top producers became increasingly reliant on premium vineyards. The same period saw the rapid growth in demand for more sophisticated and complex wines in the U.S. market, and raised the quality stakes for everyone in the business.

In 1998 Dutton and Goldfield launched their own winery. Steve Dutton still devotes his time to managing vineyards and providing grapes to a host of wineries. However, Dan Goldfield now presides over transforming a portion of the produce into the partnership’s limited production premium wines, hence the trademark Dutton-Goldfield. With established vineyards as their fruit source, and with decades of experience growing grapes and making wine in the cooler corners of Sonoma County, the new outfit provided top wines from the first.

Not surprisingly Dutton-Goldfield is best known for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Their efforts with these two varietals reassert the value of subtlety and balance in the face of recent trends toward ever heavier, louder wines. Careful treatment, in the vineyards and at harvest, guarantees the fruit’s arrival in prime condition. Traditional vinification (with a bit of modern emphasis on initial “cold soaking” of the must) leads to wines that portray varietal character and a sense of place, rather than raw power and alcohol. The winery tends to judge its produce parcel-by-parcel, and even barrel-by-barrel. Each is distinctive but subtle, balanced, and reliant on texture rather than bluster. It may be a bit early on to make predictions, but these wines have the class and style that cellar well. They are neither fragile nor overblown. They will likely outlive the “blockbusters” that seem to fascinate many reviewers. They certainly show their manners at the dinner table. With plenty of nuance to add interest to a meal, they never overpower the flavors of well-prepared dishes.

Since the Dutton-Goldfield wines are produced in quantities of a few hundred cases each, it can be frustrating to look for a certain vintage or vineyard site. Be confident in trying any one you find. They are all winners (and all keepers).

10/04

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