It may not be summer yet, but we can be assured of warm weather for a while. With the warm weather comes more casual dining with generally lighter fare. Seasonal changes suggest a change in wines as well. That powerful Red Zin, full of extract and high in alcohol, might be dandy with roast lamb in mid-winter, but it may be just a bit much for a light dinner on the back porch at 80º. OK, that Red Zin might still be great, but lighter wine, perhaps chilled wine, should be considered. “There’s been a change in the weather, there will be a change in us”, in effect.

In spite of long standing dictums to the contrary, any wine can be served chilled. Some wines just seem to like being chilled better than others. Standard advice has always suggested that white wine and rosé be served quite cold. However, serving red wine chilled is frightening to some folks. Let’s face it, there is no rule. For most of us, light reds are very pleasant when served slightly chilled, 55º or 60º, and serving them a bit colder on a warm day does no harm. Beaujolais from France is the most famous red that is customarily served chilled, but any light red from any region and any grape type could benefit from being at least a bit cool to the touch. The reasonable advice here is “the lighter the red wine the lower the suggested serving temperature”. Truly heavy, long lived reds can be unappealing if served too cold, but this is a matter of taste. In any case, “room temperature” for red wines does not mean 85º, very few people indeed enjoy warm table wine. So, serve big red wines in the 60º to 70º range, and serve lighter reds cooler than that, to taste. Lighten up, especially on the alcohol in warm weather.

Summertime is the time for young wines. It is true that some of the world’s greatest wines improve with age. However, most of the refreshing warm weather wines are best when drunk young. Even in categories where age can be a virtue (Bordeaux, Barolo, Brunello, California Cabernet), it is best to save grand old bottles for a winter’s evening and enjoy younger versions in the heat. Even Cabernet Sauvignon has a refreshing fruit component when young enough.

Among white wines, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio in Italian) tops the hot weather category. A growing number of successful California entries are showing up these days, but Oregon is still the domestic champion of Pinot Gris. From Europe, most any example will do well, but consider first the Pinot Grigio of Northern Italy, and the Pinot Gris of Alsace in France.

Riesling is an admirable summertime white, especially in the dry versions from Alsace and certain regions of Germany. Even sweet Riesling has attractive acidity (and usually very low alcohol) which yields a decided fresh fruit flavor. In fact, Riesling is probably the best choice in truly hot weather. Gewurztraminer could be considered the spicy cousin of Riesling. The grape is not as popular here as it should be. It is eminently adaptable to all kinds of cuisine. Its flavors burst forward even when served quite cold. Although the grape is not “in vogue” in the U.S. there are many very good domestic offerings (often at deflated prices relative to their quality).

Only the lighter, crisper styles of Chardonnay really work well in hot weather. Some of the finest Chardonnays disqualify themselves by being too rich, too oaky, or too high in alcohol. Look for Chardonnay from cool growing regions with under 14% alcohol. The lightest white Burgundies from France and the “unoaked” wines from Australia are often the best for hot days.

Sauvignon Blanc, like Chardonnay can vary in style, but these days most are in a light vein. California wineries seem to make their Sauvignon Blanc lighter than their Chardonnay. Don’t overlook the white wines of Bordeaux. Many of these are the in lightest style, often at bargain prices.

Virtually any rosé will do the job. It’s no surprise that the warmer growing regions often specialize in rosé. The South of France provides us Cote du Rhone rosé, rosé d’Provence, and a host of less well-known rosé of excellent quality. Spain fills the bill as well, with great rosé produced alongside great red in many regions. Although Americans are still having trouble understanding that not all rosé is sweet “pop” wine, more and more fine examples are available. Even red wine specialists are releasing premium rosé.

Don’t forget sparkling wines. There is nothing more refreshing (or elegant) on a warm summer evening than airy, cool, French Champagne. Geman Sekt, Italian Spumante, Spanish Cava, and domestic sparkling wine work too!

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