Wine and food can be a glorious match. There is no doubt that well chosen combinations can make for near transcendental experiences. As a result we have gurus who dwell long and hard on exceedingly precise wine combinations. Some of them have become so influential that many folks won’t dare choose a wine for dinner without consulting a book or magazine. Heaven help you if you choose a less than perfect match for tonight’s dinner. This may be because a long cycle of recession in the circus and carnival business has driven loud and assertive “barkers” into the wine trade. It can all be too much to deal with. Some folks just settle for a beer rather than open their wine selection up for debate. It need not be that difficult.

A primary and overriding truth is that most consumers have favorite styles, wines that they just seem to prefer. There is truly no need for anyone who prefers light, fresh, Beaujolais to force himself to drink heavy Cabernet because it is deemed appropriate by some pundit. No one should be terrorized into abandoning a well-formed preference as a concession to someone else’s taste. On the other hand there are matches that stem from regional, cultural, or culinary affinity. There are combinations that most folks enjoy and some folks regale. Every wine lover should try these combinations. It is foolish indeed to overlook a dining experience that many people have reported as enjoyable. The age-old traditional matches are most reliable. Generations of diners would not perpetuate a tradition that is unsatisfying (unless under the influence of some carnival barker/guru). If oysters and Chablis are commonly praised, a wine lover ought to try the combo. However, no one who finds the pairing unpleasant should persist in ritually repeating his discomfort. Not trying traditional matches is probably foolish. Persisting in painful repetition is surely stupid.

There are a few generalities that offer gentle guidance to the wine and food adventurer. The ancient maxim that one should drink white wine with fish and red wine with meat holds up for most folks. The lighter acids of crisp white wine seem to show most fish and shellfish to advantage. The heavier tannins of red wines seem a good foil for the heavier texture of red meat. Yes, there are some folks who just don’t ever seem to like red (or white). They should feel comfortable in ordering as they choose. But most folks will find that they prefer to follow the red versus white tradition.

Certain spicy foods call out for mellower, sometimes even sweeter matches. If curry, pepper, or other seasonings dominate a dish, tart or tannic wines might be just too much. Softer wines with a bit of residual sugar can be exquisite with spice. Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Chenin Blanc offer beautiful aromas without harsh or heavy components. These wines vary in sweetness to match most any taste. Skeptics might find that a bit of sugar rounds out these wines and contrasts nicely with spice.

Heavily seasoned meat dishes are often paired with very heavy reds. There is some sense to this. Tannins in the wine that might otherwise seem overbearing are very appropriate with the more aggressive flavors of braised meats, stews, and even barbeque. On the other hand, many modern light reds, preserve the fresh berry aromas and acids of the grape with enough zest to stand up to any food. Modern Pinot Noir, Gamay, Barbera, and (red) Zinfandel can be light in body and color and still packed with flavor. You may not want a monster red with an already heavy meal. Contrast sometimes is better than complement.

In addition to oysters and Chablis there are a few other classic matches worth at least a try. Match sweet wines (especially Sauternes) with foie gras, Muscadet or dry Sauvignon Blanc with mussels, Pinot Noir or Pinot Gris with Salmon, Beaujolias with stewed meats. Feel free to try any suggestion from a well-intentioned source. Especially, try regional or ethnic favorites. Most of all, ignore the carnival barkers.

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