Talk of the 2003 wine harvest in Europe has been big news for months now. Unusually dry, hot summer weather affected every part of Northern Europe. As always, opinions vary. Some have proclaimed widespread disaster, others talk of the vintage of 100 years. Actually both might be true.

It is certainly the case that quantities produced in most traditional quality-wine regions were very low. In light of the abundance of recent years, low volume is not necessarily a problem to the industry. In fact, a large harvest might have been more of a problem than a small one. Except for those operating at the extreme luxury end of the wine spectrum, a big year often means depressed prices and difficulty selling inventories.

The quality issue is much more difficult to assess. The extreme heat (by European standards) of summer 2003 certainly had an effect on the ripening of fruit. The critical issues for each producer were the type of fruit growing in the vineyard, and the responses the vineyard manager and winemaker made. Some regions grow grape types that seem to love the heat. Many areas growing Cabernet, Syrah, and the like almost always wish for warmer, drier weather. This year they surely got it. Producers who “went with the flow” and allowed the grapes to linger on the vine in spite of early ripening, have a chance at making wines of great substance and longevity. The underlying fruit character of many of these wines will be superior. Some who panicked and picked as soon as sugars reached normal ripeness levels may make lighter less complex wine. Those who waited may make “California style” wines. Whether this is a good or bad thing is perhaps a matter of personal taste.

The main thing for consumers to remember is that wines typically fall into one of two categories. Some are best drunk in their youth and the time to evaluate them is soon after they are bottled. There is not much reason for the consumer to catalogue weather reports let alone the surmise of a multitude of wine pundits in regard to these fresh young wines. It is simple enough to sample them when they arrive and drink them if they please. Wines for the cellar are a bit trickier. There is a huge fascination with rating these wines even before the juice is fermented. This is high-powered nonsense. Gurus run around comparing notes about these products when they are still juice bubbling in the tanks. Then wire service stories appear in print everywhere, each quoting another. The reputation of a vintage still in the tank is unproved at best and nonsense at worst. Premium estates who age their wine for two or more years before bottling may be the best judges of what is suitable for the cellar. A great estate seldom releases a wine that fails to meet standards. Winemakers know more about all this than wine writers.

For now, the first wine of the new vintage, Beaujolais Nouveau, is headed our way. This will be the first chance for most of us to sample the provender of the wine-year 2003. Gamay grapes for Beaujolais are left intact to crush under their own weight and burst through the activity of fermentation. Little else is done and after just a few days the liquid is siphoned off and fermentation is completed. Through this speedy, uncomplicated process Beaujolais becomes the lightest, least tannic, freshest of all red wines. In its extreme youth it is all fruit and vigor, bursting with raspberry flavors with a crisp, clean finish. This is one red wine that is delicious when chilled, ready to be taken in gulps and enjoyed as a simple table beverage. Although there are many wines of the Beaujolais region worthy of critical tasting and cellaring for special occasions, Nouveau is a thing of the moment.

This year the moment comes on November 20th, the Thursday before Thanksgiving. The wine will be air-shipped to various restaurants and retailers in time for simultaneous release (with allowances for time zones) all around the world Harvest was many weeks earlier than normal and early word is that, although quantities were reduced by abnormal heat, quality will be very good.

But then, we shall soon see!

Back to "Articles"