Joullian Vineyards

The back porch of winemaker Ridge Watson’s house affords one of the grandest views in a region noted for striking vistas. Acres of densely planted vines in neat rows lead the eye to the rolling hills of Carmel Valley a thousand feet below. The valley’s rugged hills are rimmed by the abrupt elevations of the California coastal range. Wilderness borders the property on all sides. The Joullian winery and its estate vineyards are a thing apart, physically, philosophically, and aesthetically. This unique enterprise is an outpost of winemaking culture in the rugged California hills, yet it is a mere twenty miles or so from the golf courses and celebrity homes of Pebble Beach.

This vineyard is a "ranch". Vineyards are called ranches even in Napa Valley when completely surrounded by other vineyards, laid out with checkerboard consistency. Here, in the highlands above Carmel, the name seems perfectly apt. Eighty percent of the property remains unplanted, a haven for native growth and wild animals.

Ridge Watson joined Joullian in 1981 having studied history at Stanford, spent over three years in the Peace Corps (in Thailand), worked for five years as a Bay Area wine merchant, mastered in food science and enology at CSU Fresno, and worked at winemaking in France and Australia. California winemakers are a diverse lot, but few have such a background, especially in selling wines to the consumer. He then had the luxury (and the burden) of starting from scratch, choosing land, designing and planting the vineyards, selecting grape types (and clones), and building the winery. The parts fit together in a unique way. The estate grows a mix of grapes and is proud of using a variety of clones of each. Ridge seems proud of having "designed" his wines, now a twenty-year project from conception, "from terroir to the bottle".

Joullian Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc are entirely from estate grown fruit. The Chardonnay is a mix of various clones from the estate and other notable Monterey County vineyards. As an abundance of superior Chardonnay is available from inland districts, Joullian has been reducing dependence on estate Chardonnay. Existing vineyard is being grafted to other varietals. In fact, the winery has increasing amounts of Zinfandel. This year we will see (and taste) excellent Carmel Valley Zin, up to now available only directly from the winery.

Greenville is graced with ample supply of the winery’s main line releases. The Sauvignon Blanc has the dry finish of a white Bordeaux overlaid with the extra fruit flavor common in Central Coast wines. Although this wine mellows with age, enjoy it in its youth for its grapefruit and lemongrass aroma and taste. A great aperitif wine and a match for dishes mixing herbs and fresh vegetables. An admirable match for herb roasted chicken or stir fried pork.

The Chardonnay is complicated, with layers of flavor from mixing clones and vineyard sources, along with an aging program in a variety of oak barrels. While definitely Californian in body and finish, this wine has the integrity (austere delicacy) of a tempered white Burgundy. It is more subtle and charming than the blockbusters so common in California today. Joullian’s Chardonnay seems to enjoy a bit of bottle age. However, the latest release, the fabulous 1999 is a joy right now. The complexity of this wine makes it an intriguing complement to main courses of grilled or broiled fish, or steamed or boiled shellfish.

The Cabernet is a favorite, complex and age-worthy, but tempered by California standards. The winery has released its Cab late in the past, and has just now shipped the first of its excellent 1999 vintage. Past releases have sold out quickly. Don’t delay just because availability is good right now. It is the richest yet from Joullian, full bodied and destined to age well, but softer and more ready to drink than wines from the mid-90’s. Ridge attributes the richer, riper, texture to trellising which is achieving fuller maturity in the grapes. This wine has enough fruit flavor to be adaptable, enjoyable even without accompanying food, but try it with grilled or broiled red meat.

Try the Zinfandel if you can find it. It is easily the equal of the finest cabernets with an extra measure of crisp fruit flavor. The Joullian estate may be a bit wild and remote, but the wines are elegant and accessible.

To visit the Joullian web site click here Joullian Vineyards

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Originally published in "The Greenville Journal", Feb. 28 - Mar. 7, 2002 in "From The Vine" column, author, Richard deBondt.