A bit like icing on a cake, lava from volcanoes east of Lake Tahoe once coated much of the Sierra Foothills wine district. Most of the “lava cap” formations have eroded beyond recognition over nearly ten million years. Significant vestiges of this once common geological phenomenon were literally blown away by enthusiastic gold rush miners who sometimes used water-canons in an effort to get at gold-rich gravel below the cap. Lava Cap Winery and Vineyards are perched atop and along the upper grade of a magnificent valley/canyon. Grapes from this beautiful land are favored indeed. They enjoy the moderating influence of enough elevation (between 1500 and 3000 feet) to soften the hot summers of the valleys below. They benefit from the ready availability of water when needed, but are free of the threat of damaging humidity during the ripening season. They grow in volcanic soils rarely found in just such an ideal site. And, they prosper under the care of a family venture dedicated to highlighting the distinct character and flavor of each winemaking varietal.

Lava Cap’s own special corner of the foothills of the Sierra Nevada is the Apple Hill region, a slice of El Dorado County above Placerville California, in the heart of Gold Rush country. The canyon below the vineyards stretches down to the South Fork of the American River. The farm country around the winery is reminiscent of our agrarian past. Fortunately, most of the tourists rushing from the Bay Area to Lake Tahoe bypass the little towns of the foothills leaving the countryside largely unscarred (at least for the last 150 years).

El Dorado County has a full history of growing fruit and making wine. 90-100 years ago there were 10,000 acres of vineyards and over 60 wineries in the County. Winemaking in significant amounts dates back to the influx of the 49ers, who arrived with a thirst for more than just gold. Although today’s plantings are perhaps 10% of pre-prohibition totals, the recent success of existing growers and the availability of numerous favorable sites, bodes well for California wine enthusiasts.

Lava Cap is hardly a newcomer by U.S. standards. It was established in 1981 with the purchase of a 65 acre 1860’s pear ranch. Successive expansions have brought a total of about 140 acres of vineyard land under control of the winery. Lava Cap is fortunate therefore to rely mostly on estate grown fruit. Purchased fruit also comes from similar “mountain-grown” sources. The enterprise is a family corporation comprised of David, Jeanne, Charlie, and Tom Jones. David presides over the company while continuing a long, successful career in Geology (currently teaching at Berkeley). Jeanne runs the office and sons Charles and Tom manage the vineyards and make the wines.

The winery releases an array of white and red wines. All are well worth a try. Each is well crafted and distinctive, tending to the rich, robust, and ready to drink style so much in favor. The consumer (not to mention retailer) might find the large array a little frustrating. Since none of the wines is made in large quantities, availability can be tricky. Some Lava Cap wines are made in such tiny quantities that they may appear briefly only on first release. Nevertheless, the Greenville market has been blessed with fairly regular supply from the foothills gem.

While small quantities of other wines have made their way to our area, the Cabernet Sauvignon the Merlot are most commonly available. Both are winners. They each exhibit the “forward style” which makes most red wines from the foothills regions quite drinkable on release. The Cabernet Sauvignon possesses all of the “mint” and “herb” aromas one expects from fine varietal Cabernet and these welcome nuances are richly rounded out with full-bodied scents and tastes of beautiful fresh fruit. The Merlot is every bit as rich and full textured, but substitutes aromas and tastes of ripe cherry for much of the seasoning in the Cabernet. The tannins in both wines are exceptionally soft. They are great wines for robust meals featuring red meat, but quite drinkable all by themselves or with cheese and fruit.

Two limited production “big gun” reds have tiny availability locally, a zesty Sierra Foothills Zinfandel at about $26, and an intense, spicy single-vineyard El Dorado County Petite Sirah at about $32. The relative rarity of these two can make them hard to find, but they are each worth an effort.

We see very little white wine from Lava Cap, but what we have tried has been enormously successful. Chardonnay appears occasionally and (disappears instantly on arrival). This high altitude wine, mostly from estate grown grapes, is leaner and more complex than most domestic Chardonnay. Aged in barrel on the lees, this is a wine with more crisp fruit flavor than most, accented with good acidity and just a touch of oak. At present a small amount of Sauvignon Blanc is on hand locally. It too has more than customary acidity for a California wine, with fresh fruit highlights and just a bit of an herbal finish. Amazingly, the Sauvignon Blanc sells for about $13.

The pioneer-like attitude of the people and the place seem to show in the wines. Furthermore the modest price range of most Lava Cap wines can be refreshing as well.

5/05

Back to "Articles"