Lungarotti

Lungarotti Rubesco graces a glass with delicate ruby color, mellow red-fruit aromas, and a long soft finish. The wine is the best known product of Umbria’s best known winery. Although the name derives from the verb “rubescere” which means to blush, the wine is a far cry from the American concept of a blush wine. A blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes, Rubesco is clearly reminiscent of premium Chianti from neighboring Tuscany. The wine gets a bit more barrel age than is traditional in central Italy, nevertheless it retains a freshness that gives it charm in its youth. Aged bottles take on a bit of amber color and soften on the palate. The richness of this wine is in its complex flavors rather than massive weight. A European-style classic, Rubesco has charmed red wine enthusiasts around the globe. In remarkable contrast to most reds of this caliber, the wine is also readily available. Lungarotti is able to estate-bottle upwards of 60,000 cases of this Italian classic. Hence Rubesco, a Lungarotti trademark for DOC regulated “Rosso di Torgiano”, while classic and wonderful, is hardly scarce.

Giorgio Lungarotti led land-locked Umbria (in central Italy, Southeast of Florence) into the modern wine market when he converted significant portions of his family’s holdings into premium vineyards. In 1962 he established a winery to produce first traditional Umbrian wines, and later, “new age” varietal wines from such “exotic” grapes as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Two of his classics, Rubesco (Torgiano Rosso) and Torre di Giano (Torgiano Bianco), were granted prestigious DOC status in 1968. Today the Lungarotti winery, perpetuated by Giorgio’s daughters, Teresa and Chiara, offers an array of great wines. Rubesco and the single vineyard Rubesco Riserva “Vigna Monticchio” (now a DOCG) still lead the lineup.

Lungarotti Pinot Grigio has been a particular success in the American market. No doubt this white wine gains a boost from the current fad for this grape type, previously identified with mountain regions of Northeastern Italy. Still, Lungarotti’s version is very much a product of its home region and distinguishes itself with high quality and a style all its own. Fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, Lungarotti Pinot Grigio retains its fresh-fruit character and a bit of apply-crisp acidity even though the warmer than normal growing region contributes a rich, creamy texture. Although this wine is not quite as dry-tasting and mineral-laden as the top Pinot Grigios of Alto Adige and other sub-alpine regions, it escapes the sugary finish of many mass-market whites. The wine makes a terrific aperitif and is a good match for casual summertime dining.

Other Lungarotti products reach us with less regularity than the Rubesco and the Pinot Grigio, but they are well worth trying when the opportunity comes along. Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Vino Santo (a unique dessert wine), Sparkling wine, and even Grappa are imported to the U.S. and occasionally available locally. These range from the traditional fiery Grappa and musty Vino Santo, to the decidedly modern oak-aged Cabernet and rich, heavy Chardonnay.

In addition to winemaking on a grand scale, Lungarotti continues other traditional farming pursuits, most notably olive growing and the production of premium olive oil, and the family operates a successful hotel, “Le Tre Vesalle”, joined by a restaurant of the same name. Proximity to Assisi and Perugia make Torgiano a likely stopover for tourists.

Further, the efforts of the Lungarotti family have created museums for wine and olive oil. The olive oil museum, founded in 1960 by Giorgio and Maria Grazia Lungarotti, is housed in a complex of restored medieval dwellings. The olive is central to the ancient cultures of the Italian peninsula and the museum illustrates the botanical characteristics of the trees and the methods of oil production. It is filled with artifacts of the history of this socially and economically important crop. The wine museum, housed in the 17th century Graziani-Baglioni palace, has been open to the public since 1974 and consists of 20 exhibition rooms. Special emphasis is given to wine as food, wine as medicine, and wine in mythology.

To enjoy Lungarotti’s hospitality one must travel to Torgiano. Fortunately we can enjoy their wine right here.

06/05

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