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Melsheimer Mosel Riesling
Greenville
County has a unique link to one of Germany’s finest traditional
wineries. Stephanie van Rhyn, a resident of Greenville for fifteen
years, imports her family wines from one of the Mosel River’s
most prestigious growing regions. The family wine firm of Melsheimer
has produced wines since the early 1800’s. With estate holdings
at the town of Reil, the modern Melsheimer winery owns over thirty
acres of Riesling vineyards. This impressive private holding occupies
one of the formidable slate-filled slopes that make Germany’s
finest wines. The precipitously steep vineyards make for especially
difficult farming, but they yield wines of superior style and
grace. The Rieslings of the Middle Mosel display uncommon fruit
aroma and delicacy, combined with crisp green-apple tartness.
The mineral rich soil contributes to the long finish common to
virtually all of the world’s greatest white wines. Premium
Riesling wines of the Mosel delight in their youth, but age magnificently.
Fine old Mosel Riesling is an incredible blend of honey, ripe
melon and mineral, coating the palate like no other wine.
Another specialty of the region is premium Sekt, the fine sparkling
wine of Germany. Melsheimer is unusual in making great Sekt on
a small scale, all in the traditional method of bottle fermentation
and hand-riddling. The natural acidity of Riesling grapes makes
for ideal “base wines” which give fetching light texture
to the finished sparkling wines. Fine Mosel Sekt is among the
most elegant and refreshing of aperitif or celebration wines.
Thorsten Melsheimer now presides over all aspects of winemaking
at the estate. He is in the forefront of Germany’s “Ecovin”
movement, an organized effort to foster and guarantee organic
vineyard management. As a fully “organic” winery Melsheimer
uses no artificial fertilizers and no chemical sprays. Further,
Melsheimer uses reduced amounts of sulfur-dioxide at bottling.
Combined with complete reliance on “Estate Grown”
fruit and traditional fermentation techniques, the organic status
of the winery makes Melsheimer a leader in Europe’s growing
effort to naturalize and revitalize vineyards that have been in
production for many centuries.
The importation of the wines to the U.S. is another extension
of the small scale family approach. Stephanie van Rhyn has a strong
link to the two hundred year old family enterprise. Her brother
Eberhard succeeded Robert, their father, and managed the firm
for over 25 years. Stephanie began direct importing the wines
in 1997, to reintroduce fine quality Riesling wines to a market
dominated by mass market branded wines. The wines are now distributed
in South Carolina, North Carolina, and Connecticut. Although Melsheimer’s
wines are all produced in small quantities, our market receives
some of every release.
Melsheimer offers two value-priced selections in one liter bottles,
both made entirely from estate grown Riesling. Labeled simply
“Qualitatswein b.a.” one is marked “Melsheimer
Riesling dry”, and the other “Melsheimer Riesling
half-dry”. Each displays genuine Mosel character, yet sells
for around $12/Liter.
There is an array of Qualitatswein mit Pradikat (wines with special
distinction). These wines conform to the German system for naming
top quality wine products. At this level the use of place names
is very highly regulated. Furthermore, the use of sugar at any
stage of winemaking is strictly forbidden. All of these wines
are bottled in the traditional tall, slim, green bottles which
signify the region of origin. The quality grades generally available
are Kabinett, Spatlese, and Auslese. These represent increasing
levels of natural sugar at harvest. Ranging from light bodied
to rich and smooth, each grade is available at varying degrees
of dryness. Even the sweeter versions retain crisp acidity and
a clean finish. The “half-dry” and “dry”
versions are admirable complements to fine dining. These wines
range in price from $15 to $30/bottle. A tiny quantity of luscious,
sweet “Eiswein” is also available from time to time.
At Melsheimer, even the design of the labels is a family affair.
Thorsten’s sister Isabell, an accomplished artist, does
the design work along with their mother, Regina. Another exciting
family enterprise has been the restoration of two traditional
Mosel homes, which serve as a Bed and Breakfast. Melsheimer affords
an excellent opportunity to make a wine pilgrimage with fine hospitality
and excellent wine tasting.
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