Meritage
Blends
"Meritage"
is a coined word, actually the wining entry in a "name that
wine" contest. It is also the registered trademark of an
association of U.S. producers who voluntarily register their products
and pay dues to support regulation and promotion of "hand-crafted
wines blended from the traditional Bordeaux varietals". The
association is addressing a problem U.S. producers have in defining
their products. The problem has its roots in the absence of historic
regional wine traditions.
In
Europe, a region such as Bordeaux in France or the Rheingau in
Germany may have many hundreds of years of winemaking history.
In most winemaking regions of Europe, local winegrowing practices
evolved rather independently. Grape types and production practices
that proved better for local growers evolved over generations
until a given area became known for very specialized wines. Hence,
the Rheingau in Germany looks like one immense vineyard of Riesling
grapes, similarly planted and cultivated, and made into a traditional
range of wines. Wine lovers can speak of Rheingau wines and know
much about the grape type, growing conditions, winemaking practices,
and styles being discussed. With few exceptions, the wine of the
region can be judged against a standard since they are very much
of a type. This is quite true of Bordeaux in France as well. Although
Bordeaux is a huge growing region with diversity of soil and microclimate,
its wines are for the most part of a type. Centuries of common
practice (and now six decades of legal regulation) have yielded
a wine style that can be defined as to grape type, viticulture,
and winemaking. This is much less so in the U.S.
For
example, a Napa Valley wine is defined by place. The boundaries
of Napa Valley are legally defined for winemaking purposes. However,
there is no clearly defined Napa Valley wine type. Many grapes
do well in Napa and many divergent styles are employed. A generation
or so ago, premium producers began naming the grape type on labels
in an effort to distinguish and identify certain wines. Now we
are well accustomed to "Varietal Labeling". This makes
sense. To know that a wine is from Napa Valley, and that it is
made from Merlot grapes says a great deal. However, this still
does not define winemaking practices and the style of a wine.
Merlot can be dark as ink or pale salmon pink. It can be rich
and high in alcohol or light and fruity. So, how to define style?
And, furthermore, what to say about a wine that is a blend of
grapes? Enter Meritage Red and Meritage White.
According
to the Meritage Association, Meritage is pronounced like "Heritage"
and it is coined to combine the meaning of "merit" and
"heritage". For us wine-drinkers it denotes particular
styles of blended wines.
Red
Meritage is made from a blend of two or more of the traditional
Bordeaux red grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc,
Malbec, Petite Verdot, St. Macaire, Gros Verdot, and Carmenere.
The wines are rich, deep colored, and dry. In almost all cases
they are suited to robust meals when consumed young. Wines of
this class are usually age-worthy. Examples from the 70’s, long
before there was any Meritage Association, are in some cases still
doing very well. With age, 10 years would be a good standard for
most red Meritage, the wines take on complexity and a smooth long
finish, to replace the robust fruit and bramble flavors of youth.
White
Meritage is made from a blend of two or more of the traditional
white Bordeaux grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Sauvignon
Vert. The wines are leaner and more herbaceous than most Chardonnays.
Dry, fresh, and lively in youth, Meritage White tends to age better
than most California whites, perhaps 5 years.
The
Meritage program is voluntary and self-regulating. Hence some
excellent wines that could qualify are not members of the association.
Furthermore, some members choose to support the association but
do not use the word "Meritage" on their labels. And
lastly, there are other good blends, Rhone style blends for example,
which have no name but are certainly not Meritage wines.
To
visit the Meritage
Wine Association click here.
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Originally
published in "The Greenville Journal", September 15-21, 2000 in
"From The Vine" column, author, Richard deBondt.