Monterey County

Most of us think of Monterey, California first in terms of its famous bay. The friendly environs of cities of Monterey, Carmel, and Pacific Grove thrill millions of visitors every year. Golfers yearn for the Pebble Beach area and its famous courses. Literate folks might think first of Steinbeck’s famous characters who made their homes and lived their drama around Salinas and Cannery Row. All these things are memorable aspects of Monterey County. Few of us think of the area’s important agriculture. Artichokes, garlic, lettuce, and other row crops have issued from Monterey in great abundance for generations. The supply of these important crops has rarely stirred connoisseurs to speak in thrilled tones about the region. Now however, we have wine, wine of the finest quality, and wine in abundance.

The history of winemaking in Monterey includes accounts of the early efforts of the Franciscans who planted wine grapes at their missions over 200 years ago. Alas, though their influence may have been long lasting in many ways, their vineyards did not survive. In fact of the two centuries of Monterey’s agricultural history, it is the last 40 years or so that interest wine lovers. In the 1960’s demand for premium domestic wine began to grow. Just as Napa and Sonoma were experiencing their rebirths as “wine country” (they had enjoyed a rich and prosperous history prior to 1900), Monterey was identified by agricultural researchers as a top class site for growing vinifera grapes. The region with its long growing season, cool nights, and moderating influence of coastal breezes promised to be a fine home for chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet, merlot, and all the other premium wine varietals. Pioneer types established independent wineries in many different parts of the county. Large corporations plotted huge plantings to supply their anticipated need for premium wine to augment their “fruit wine” and “dessert wine” offerings. Furthermore, a few established mid-sized wineries such as Wente, Mirassou, and J. Lohr were feeling the pinch of urbanization in Livermore and San Jose and looked south to Monterey for replacement or expansion vineyards. Early successes with projects large and small led to continued vineyard expansion. For over 40 years now, Monterey County has averaged 1,000 acres of vineyard growth per year.

The Monterey Appellation (legal place name for wine) does not include the entire county. It isolates the coastal area around the cities of Monterey and Carmel and the 80-mile long valley stretching south to Sal Luis Obispo. Although the length of this valley is shielded from the coast by the Santa Lucia Range, its northern opening to Monterey Bay allows for the considerable influence of the cool Pacific air. Each day, as the interior valley is warmed by the sun (temperature variations of 50 degrees are normal), the rising warm air mass is replaced with moist, cool air from the coast. Vineyards further south, down the valley, are generally warmer. Elevation above the valley floor, and orientation toward the sun are other important factors influencing a specific vineyard’s microclimate. As always, mineral content of the soil and drainage of surface water also differentiate sites. There are important subsections of Monterey deemed to have specific local tendencies. Carmel Valley is coastal with much of the vineyard at significant altitude. The Santa Lucia Highlands is the east-facing northern section of the interior valley. Chalone (site of the older designation “Pinnacles”) is mid-valley on the rather dry rises reaching up toward the Eastern mountains. Arroyo Seco is mid-valley on the valley floor reaching into a western canyon. San Lucas and Hames Valley are quite southern and provide a warmer climate.

The most exciting Monterey County wines are sourced from one of these specific locals, if not from a single named vineyard. However, the standard for all Monterey County vineyards is high. Alas, much of the fruit is lost in “Central Coast” or “California” blends, perhaps awaiting a yet more discerning public.

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