New
Zealand is the newest of the "new world" wine regions.
There are records of grape growing and even wine production in
New Zealand well before 1850. However, the wine industry as we
know it is a very modern creation. More than 95% of the current
vineyard acreage has been planted (or replanted) within the last
50 years. Early efforts seem to have suffered from poor choice
as to grape types and vineyard management. New regions almost
always experiment poorly. Progress was impeded by the lack of
a local market for premium product, a distance from world markets,
and a prohibitionist era, in addition to the normal winemakers’
problems. The industry’s response to a cooler, wetter than average,
growing season was to plant German hybrids which may have a place,
but don’t provide the finest wines (even in Germany). When phylloxera
struck vineyards the world over, New Zealand was replanted not
with premium vines grafted to resistant roots, but with American
hybrids, which have never made fine wine (even here). In spite
of over a century of mostly indifferent production results, poor
export prospects, and remarkable internal legal constraints, a
few wineries proved that premium wines could be produce in New
Zealand. From the point of view of a wine enthusiast, the country
has been reborn in the last 30 years.
The
first thing to realize about New Zealand is that it is not close
to Australia. Yes, we tend to speak of them together, but more
than 1,000 miles separate the two countries. Further, all of New
Zealand is situated south of most of Australia (further from the
equator, and generally cooler and wetter). Also, New Zealand has
no large landmass, its vineyards are all maritime. Not surprisingly,
New Zealand’s vineyards seem to succeed with different varietals,
different vineyard techniques, and a winemaking style that plays
up the distinctive nature of the fruit. Although the "bag-in-box"
low end product still exists, many dozens of small producers have
sprung up, relying on premium product in small quantities for
their viability.
The
greatest, world-beater story from New Zealand (at least for now)
is Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. The astounding success, both
critical and financial, of the trademark Cloudy Bay has led the
way for a whole region, with varietal Sauvignon Blanc. The Marlborough
district’s first commercial vineyards were planted in 1973. By
1993 more than 5,000 acres of wine grapes graced the stony soils
around the town of Blenheim. Here at the northern edge of the
"South Island" long sunny days are more abundant than
in other parts of the country. Moderate temperature and drying
winds help to contribute fruit that is fully ripe, strong in varietal
character, but still high in acid. No doubt about it, the Sauvignon
Blancs of Marlborough are the wine type most identified with New
Zealand. The best of them are world class and distinct from those
of other countries. Nevertheless, other successes exist. There
are other wines made at Marlborough (or at least from fruit grown
at Marlborough). Moreover there are other noteworthy regions expanding
their plantings at a rapid pace. Some of the older regions, notably
Hawkes Bay, have responded well to the challenge of a growing
market for premium product.
To
date, most of New Zealand’s successes have been with white wines.
Chardonnay is the most widely planted grape in modern times. Gisborne,
mid way up the east coast of the North Island has largely been
replanted. Hybrids of various types have been replaced with Chardonnay
and other vinifera vines. Improvements in pruning, largely to
allow for fuller ripening by reducing foliage, proved to be capable
of producing fine wines. To date, most of the best are labeled
Chardonnay.
Hawkes
Bay, also on the North Island, is coming forth with an astounding
array of different premium wines. In addition to many fine whites,
Hawkes Bay has yielded world class Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Marlborough, Hawkes Bay, and Gisborne, are the largest premium
wine regions of New Zealand, but other smaller districts are producing
wines of distinction. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc dominate
but fine whites are being made with Riesling (frequently dry)
and Gewurztraminer. A few remarkable Pinot Noirs have found their
way to our market.
The
better New Zealand wines are never cheap. But they are truly fine
and good value for money!
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Originally published in "The Greenville Journal", May 10 -
May 16, 2002 in "From The Vine" column, author, Richard deBondt.