Rosé,
right out of the picnic hamper, served without ceremony in tumblers
or even paper cups. Rosé, served in casual stemware,
with cold ham and cheese and baseball on the radio. Rosé,
dressed up in elegant Riedel crystal, with Sunday brunch and
all the trimmings. –There must be a place for rosé
in your life.
The era of “blush” wine may be fading into the mist,
but fine rosé is again having its day in the sun. Rosé
was so out of favor a few years ago that most U.S. producers
refused to use the word “Rosé” on a wine
label. “White” Zinfandel or “White”
Merlot may have almost literally flooded the U.S. market but
nobody wanted to label their wine “rosé”.
We have gotten over that. Most of the world never had to. In
Europe for example, if the weather gets hot, you drink Rosé.
Just about every traditional red wine region has its Rosé.
Bordeaux, the Rhone, Tuscany, Rioja, and even Burgundy all have
important Rosé products. Many producers can’t help
themselves from wanting to make Rosé. Winemaker’s
get hot and thirsty too! Now, with the stigma erased and the
market waiting, importers and domestic producers alike are highlighting
rosé wines. New ones are even being invented.
The south of France is still the king of quality rosé.
The red wines of the south are heavy, potent, and often high
in alcohol. Much of the cuisine of the area is not friendly
to white wine. So of course, the common choice for summertime
drinking is Rosé. Provence Rosé leads the way.
From the land of aromatic herbs and wonderful country cooking
great quantities of rosé are produced (and consumed).
Some of it escapes the local thirst and makes its way to our
shores. For the most part, these wines are light, fresh, and
crisp, inexpensive and meant to be drunk young. Buy the youngest
available, chill it down, and enjoy. Famous, estate grown, Provence
Rosé can be as much as $35, but if you are hosting a
backyard cookout and not a royal wedding, you might choose a
simple wine at under $10. The Cotes du Rhone, a little north
of Provence, is best known for Chateauneuf-du-Pape and other
big reds, but this region specializes in rosé as well.
The same spectrum of style and price is available from the Rhone
with Tavel leading the way among premium products. Bandol is
another regional French name linked to fine rosé. These
wines are also dry and add a distinct herbal finish perfect
to match with herb roasted meats.
France is not the only game in town. Rosé is made all
over Spain and Italy. Several of the larger shippers in each
country have begun to offer excellent, inexpensive regional
rosé. Specialty import firms are now finding that there
is enough interest to warrant shipping the intriguing wines
of minor estates. In all cases look for young wine, but don’t
be afraid to try an unknown name.
In the U.S.A., white zinfandel is hardly a thing of the past.
The best of these is from De Loach, but most any would be palatable
when youthful (and well chilled). On the other hand, more and
more producers are making dry rosé from Pinot Noir, Syrah,
Merlot, Cabernet, and just about any red wine grape. Lots of
folks are getting into the act, and many that have been around
for years are finally showing up in our area. Ignore ratings
and “best buys”. Dare to sample the rosé
of most any reputable producer. Even wineries such as Ojai,
Elyse, Sinskey, and Iron Horse are shipping small quantities
of first-rate rosé. Looking for a certain one may prove
frustrating since so little of each is made. Instead, explore
the virtues of what is at hand. However, always look for youth.
Very little rosé benefits from age.
If you have doubts, make an experiment. Ask your merchant for
a good dry rosé (for that matter a sweet one if your
really prefer), chill it down and try it. You have a long summer
ahead of you. Fine rosé can brighten you days and spice
up your evenings.
Richard deBondt has been President of Northampton Wines,
a Greenville retail store, since its founding in 1975. In 2003
he and his associates opened “The Wine Café”
featuring fine dining, and wines to match.
Back
to "Articles"