Schug Carneros Winery

The Schug Carneros Estate Winery is almost unique in California Winemaking, an independent winery under the direction of its founder. Walter Schug grew up at the Assmannshausen Estate, a German property famous for its Pinot Noir red wines produced in the midst of one of the world’s greatest white wine regions. He augmented his wine oriented upbringing with his education at the Geisenheim Institute, one of the world’s great schools of viticulture. In 1959 Walter came to the U.S. and by the early 1970’s he was achieving success and renown as the winemaker at Joseph Phelps Vineyards. At Phelps he produced an admirable string of winners with just about every type of wine. Cabernet Sauvignon based wines were consistently his greatest triumphs (notably the famous Insignia blend). However, Walter’s life-long love of Pinot Noir was undiminished. So, in 1980, he established his own brand specifically to produce European style Pinot Noir. In 1983 he left Phelps to establish his own winery and vineyards in the Carneros Region. For the past two decades Walter has worked to establish his vineyard estate, winery, aging cellar, and worldwide distribution.

Not surprisingly, Pinot Noir is king at the Schug Carneros Estate. It is Walter’s primary focus and his reason for locating his vineyards and winery in the Carneros region. The Appellation (an Appellation is a controlled place name) stretches across the south end of Sonoma and Napa Valleys. The region rims the northern end of the San Pablo Bay (the upper reaches of the huge San Francisco Bay area). As a result, it is significantly cooler during the growing season than vineyards just a few miles to the north. Pinot Noir loves the cool evenings and the moderate late summer temperatures during ripening. Schug’s winemaking begins with the premise that the elgance and varietal character of the fruit are paramount. All Schug Pinot Noirs are dry and subtle, wines to grace the table at mealtimes.

The 2000 Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir is the freshest and lightest of Schug’s red wines. At about $15/bottle it represents great value for everyday drinking. Aged primarily in large oak casks (rather than small barrels), this wine takes on very little oak flavor and tannin. The ripe taste of Pinot Noir shines through with a mild red berry-fruit character. A perfect red for cookouts and other casual meals, this wine also works well with roast fowl.

The 1999 Carneros Pinot Noir is the mainstay of the line at about $20/bottle. The same fruit flavor mentioned above is tempered with small barrel aging. The wine combines just the right bit of oak, tannin, and berry-fruit. This wine will age magnificently. Drink now with hearty red meat dishes, or later with almost anything.

There is a tiny bit of 1998 Carneros Heritage Reserve Pinot Noir. This is without a doubt the cream of the crop. The best barrels of Carneros Pinot Noir are blended for complexity and given additional barrel aging. At $30-$35/bottle this is a bargain in the now rarefied world of special edition wines. Not overpowering, this is the finest example of complex, elegant dinner wine. Schug reserve Pinot Noirs can easily age a decade, taking on a silky texture and mild finish. This is the perfect wine for very special red meat dinners, for savoring all alone, or with cheese.

Schug makes excellent Chardonnay, once again in a lighter, more European style. Although Walter is dedicated to Pinot Noir, he is still one of the most successful California producers of this white varietal. Again, there are three releases on the market. The 2000 Sonoma Valley Chardonnay (about $15) is light and lively with flavors of fruit and spice. The 1999 Carneros Chardonnay (about $20) is richer and more complex but still crisp. The 1999 Heritage Reserve Chardonnay (about $29) is again the finest selection of the winery’s premium wine. All are adaptable because of their "Burgundian" light character, much better suited to accompanying food than many of the "blockbuster" Chardonnays on the market today.

Special releases of Cabernet, Merlot, and even Sparkling Wines from Schug reach us in small quantities. These too represent great value for the dollar. Pinot Noir may be Walter’s first love, but he has a good hand with all wines.

Visit the Schug Carneros Estate Winery website

Back to List of Articles.

Originally published in "The Greenville Journal", September 28 - October 4, 2001 in "From The Vine" column, author, Richard deBondt.