The
river Duero is better known to most wine enthusiasts as the Douro,
as it is called down river in Portugal. In its Portuguese guise
the river is a major influence on the climate, culture, commerce
of Port. But up-river in Spain, as the Duero, it is home to some
of Europe’s most prized red wines. With claim to special growing
circumstances of soil, weather, grape types, and microclimate,
the regions along the Spanish Duero have enjoyed several ancient
periods of ascendancy. Fortunately, we have another such period
at present.
The
regulated place name, Ribera del Duero, is home to a number of
the most revered producers in Spain. None is more famous (or more
expensive) than Vega Sicilia. This incredible estate began 150
years ago with large plantings of grape types typically found
in the French region of Bordeaux. Bordeaux techniques for making
and aging the wine were also employed. Over many decades Vega
Sicilia has shifted its plantings to mostly Tempranillo, a far
more traditional Spanish variety (with, it seems, a different
name in every village). The winery has also softened somewhat
its tradition of aging the red wines in cask for a decade or more.
Still "Unico", the top wine of the estate, is released
when ten years old and is said to be at its best at 20-30 years
from the vintage. A faster maturing version, released about five
years from the harvest, is labeled Valbuena. These wines are occasionally
available locally, priced from about $90 to $250 a bottle. Fortunately,
other wines of the region are more readily available, more ready
to drink, and cheaper.
In
the 1980’s Alejandro Fernandez established Pesquera de Duero,
a shining star of style, quality, and value. This deservedly famous
wine is made entirely with Tempranillo (which the locals here
call Tinto Fino). It is an ideal example of a wine unique to the
place. The cool nights (the average altitude of the region is
about 2400 feet) and warm days moderated by proximity to the river,
yield a wine with rich fruit flavors balanced with good acidity.
Fernandez has established a second premium winery, Condado de
Haza, with similar goals and similar success. These wines are
not hard to find and can usually be purchased here for under $25.
They are great value, comparing favorably with wines costing several
times as much.
Since
the 1980’s Ribera del Duero has blossomed. Today it has more than
100 wineries. There is concern that the notoriety of the region
has led to a lowering of standards. This is not unique in wine’s
modern history. The DO (regulated name) commands a good price
not only for its traditional great wines, but also for newcomers
who may not uphold style or standards. There is concern that many
of the newest wineries have little or no vineyard of their own,
and represent opportunistic investment rather than dedication
to the tradition.
The
broad basin of the Duero offers other opportunities for fine winemaking
outside its most famous DO. Sardon de Duero is the best example.
Just west of the boundary of Ribera del Duero, Sardon de Duero
has been replanted to vines in recent times. A mixture of Tempranillo
and Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet, Merlot, and even Petite
Verdot is planted. A number of producers are upholding the finest
of standards. In our area, the wines of Abadia Retuerta are most
commonly available. At prices betweem $12 and $25, they represent
great value.
Two
other Duero DO place names are fairly well represented in our
area, Toro and Rueda. Rueda distinguishes itself partly by providing
premium white wines. A white from Marques de Riscal (best known
for their Rioja red wines) is the most commonly found, but others
appear from time to time. Toro is a rapidly expanding source for
zesty red wines made mostly from Tempranillo (here called Tinto
de Toro). Most are robust and grapey, selling for around $10.
The Lurton family offers an exquisite "El Albar", rich
and mellow for under $20.
As
these place names become better known, we will have to sort out
the better wines from the opportunists. For now, however, the
Ruera wines that we see tend to be among the best!
Back to "Articles"
Originally published in "The Greenville Journal", April 12 - April
18, 2002 in "From The Vine" column, author, Richard deBondt.