Sparklers

Sparkling wine and holiday celebrations are an obvious match. Even folks who rarely drink Champagne and its sparkling cousins find a celebratory bottle or two a holiday necessity. A bit of bubbly is also the ideal aperitif. Further, good sparkling wine can dress up a casual meal. The quality and diversity now available at good prices should encourage frequent celebration. There is literally a world of choice.

Of course, the French region of Champagne reigns supreme in the world of toasts and great occasions. Genuine Champagne has earned its reputation for consistency and quality. No other wine district is so dedicated to sparklers, and none is better defined and regulated. These wines must come from registered vineyards growing Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay grapes. These wines have a lean, slightly tart character, which makes them adaptable to accompanying appetizers, fish courses, and even entire meals. The traditional “Brut” of the French Champagne houses is still the standard by which sparkling wines of all types and regions are judged. Great examples can be found for $25-$40. Luxury Cuvees can cost far more.

Champagne is not the only French sparkler. Virtually every French wine region dabbles in sparkling wine production. These products are, of course, not called Champagne. As a group they are called “Mousseux”. Some Mousseux share Champagne’s production method, but have character and style dictated by the grape types, climate, and traditions of their sources. These wines are usually nearly bone dry and a bit heavier than Champagne. They range from $10-$20.

German sparkling wine is known as “Sekt”. Sekt can be most similar to Champagne in dryness and acidity. The finest Sekt is usually made with naturally tart Riesling grapes. Some sections of the Mosel river valley even specialize in making crisp dry sparkling wine from grapes that are too tart to make table wine. Excellent examples can be found at $15-$25.

Italy produces hundreds of sparkling and semi-sparkling wines. The fully sparkling versions are generally called Spumante. These can range in quality from every-day to exquisite. Prosecco, the universal casual sparkler of Italy’s informal dining, can be found for around $10. These wines are usually racy and fresh tasting. What they may lack in finesse they make up for in exuberance. Italian sparklers can be virtually any price from $6-$50. On the upper end of the spectrum, growers in the Piedmont in northern Italy have established a DOC (regulated place name) for premium sparkling wines.

Spain favors us with sparklers known as “Cava”. These wines can be of any type and style. They are often astounding quality for the money. Although the U.S. market is awash in the least expensive Cava (often $6-$10), premium examples at around $20 can be especially rewarding.

Many other countries also offer good sparkling alternatives. The most important to mention here is the U.S.A. Domestic sparklers are the best they have ever been. Wonderful products can be had in every price range. Fine quality can even be found for under $15. Domestic sparklers in the $20-$40 price range can be some of the finest in the world. The Carneros district of Sonoma and Napa counties, the Anderson Valley of Mendocino, and the Willamette Valley in Oregon have proven to be exceptional for providing fruit with good acidity for Brut sparkling wines. It pays to look for wines that name these regions. Sadly, the word “Champagne” still appears on the labels of much of the least desirable domestic product. Almost all the finest domestic product is more honestly labeled “Sparkling Wine” with the region of origin appended (e.g. Napa Valley Sparkling Wine).

Good sparkling wine abounds. Drink some! Celebrate every chance you get!

Richard deBondt has been President of Northampton Wines, a Greenville retail store, since its founding in 1975. In 2003 he and his associates opened “The Wine Café” featuring fine dining, and wines to match.

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