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Sterling Vineyards

Sterling Vineyards has many aspects. The vineyards themselves are impressive. 1,200 acres is an impressive holding, especially when some of the most desirable and most varied sites in Napa Valley are included. The winery’s total production is sufficient that representation is not only nationwide, but international as well. Several of Sterling’s main line products are readily available in virtually all domestic markets. Sterling has a constant presence in premium wine selections rather than an occasional "top ten" entry that everyone reads about but almost nobody drinks. And Sterling has a history. Granted, in much of the world a winery whose roots go back 40 years would be a newcomer. In today’s Napa Valley however, Sterling seems something of a pioneer.

Peter Newton founded Sterling in 1964 planting 50 acres of grapevines. Like a number of the new vineyards of the time, Sterling relied heavily on Cabernet Sauvignon, with good reason. Cabernet was the proven grape variety for great red wine in Napa Valley. Merlot was another matter. Newton included Merlot (and Chardonnay as well) from the first. The first wines were produced in 1969. Later, a magnificent winery, a landmark in the Valley, was built just south of the little town of Calistoga. Newton’s vision for the winery included more than one impressive view, the obvious physical view of the upper Valley, and the slightly more veiled view of the future of wine in the U.S.A. Sterling Vineyards was a strong clue to what was to come, what we have now. It must have been hard to see a future of great California wines in abundance, with varietal wines of such grape types as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Pinot Noir. Harder yet to believe that the buying public would care to know the grape types, vineyard sites, and vintage years of origin of domestic products. This vision survives at Sterling and is heralded by recent releases of some of the best wines yet.

In spite of large overall production, the winery focuses on just a few varietals (and even fewer wine styles). Moreover, Sterling’s produce retains the focus of its Napa Valley home region. Comparatively little of the fruit for these wines comes from other growing regions. The core wines are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, just as they have been for decades.

A series of red wines are made with varying blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and other grapes of Bordeaux fame. Decades old bottles of Sterling Cabernet, Sterling Reserve, and Sterling Merlot prove the depth and staying power of these blends. Recent efforts have great balance and enough body to reward a bit of cellaring. These wines are classically structured, but have enough youthful fruit to please those impatient enough to drink them right away. The regular Merlot and Cabernet wines of Sterling reach the market at about $20/bottle and are good value. Recent vintages have been successful. No need for anxiety over the daily purchase. For that matter, a case or two for future occasions is a reasonable investment, for the price of one bottle of "collector’s wine" from some exotic postage stamp sized vineyard.

Vineyard designated and "Reserve" red wines from this same Cab/Merlot blending program are among the weightiest (and finest) in the country. Some of the best name a single famous vineyard site, such as "Diamond Mountain Ranch" or "Three Palms Vineyard". Others a proud blends of special lots from a number of vineyards, the "Reserve" wines. Either way they are great wines, at higher prices $35-$75.

Sterling Sauvignon Blanc is an adaptable bargain. At around $15, this white wine makes a great aperitif or mealtime match for fish, fowl, or light vegetarian dishes. Complex but ready to drink, this wine has a great touch, with fruit acid and an herbal overlay. Great as Chardonnay can be, this crisp, light wine is a welcome alternative.

Speaking of Chardonnay, Sterling has two great new releases. The regular Chardonnay remains a bargain at $15-$17. With hints of tropical fruit (and light on the spice), this is an easygoing crowd favorite. Neither massive, nor mild, drink this wine young while it still has highlights of green apple to contrast a long smooth finish. Then there is the Winery Lake Chardonnay. Named for the famed Carneros vineyard of its origin, this Chardonnay is more of everything. Richer, deeper, more varied in flavors and all for a few dollars more.

Watch for the new releases from Sterling. Great wines you can actually find.

Visit the Sterling Vineyards website

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Originally published in "The Greenville Journal", April 13 - 19, 2001 in "From The Vine" column, author, Richard deBondt.



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