No wine/food-pairing
question is as predictable as the seasonal one: "What should I
serve with turkey?" Every year food magazines, newspapers, and
internet "news" sites list must-have turkey wines. In some cases
the choices are so varied as to appear random. In some cases the
choices seem linked to advertising. To be fair, any wine might
serve. Turkey itself is rather adaptable to different wines. There
are no noble "turkey wine" traditions to uphold. There is no producing
region whose main cuisine is Thanksgiving turkey. First of all,
turkey can be prepared in different ways and accompanied by many
different sauces, dressings, and side dishes. And then, different
people like different wines, with or without turkey. A guest who
is accustomed to sweet pink wine at virtually all meals is hardly
likely to ask for crisp dry white or rich deep red with turkey.
Still there are wines that might specially enhance your turkey
dinner. Consider a few:
Red wine
with turkey: Some of us just prefer red wine with most meals.
Even though turkey is largely "white meat" it is a great match
for certain red wines. Light fruity reds seem particularly attuned
to Thanksgiving. Young reds of all types tend to have a layer
of berry flavors, (raspberry, blackberry, cherry) which offsets
the heavier elements of turkey dinner. Just as a fruity, prickly
cranberry relish or sauce can contrast the flavors of meat, butter,
and fat, your wine can do the same. The folks in Beaujolais have
cleverly timed their shipment of Beaujolais Nouveau so that it
is readily available here for our holiday. Nouveau is the lightest
expression of this style. Vibrant, young, and still purple, it
presents a fresh fruit aroma and a crisp, dry, light finish. This
is red wine at its most quaffable. Nouveau is available from other
sources including California but the French original is abundant
and inexpensive. If something of this same style but grander stature
is desired, choose Beaujolais wines from top "cru" vineyard sections.
These wines retain the essence of light fruit character with a
fuller, longer finish. While Beaujolais is king of this category,
any young bottling (yes, even a young bottling of a big California
Cabernet) is likely to contribute a welcome fruit component to
the meal.
A favorite
"turkey" red is Zinfandel. Not the pink stuff, serve that (cheerfully)
only to those who will drink nothing else. Red Zinfandel is another
matter. Although California producers have crafted an astounding
variety of styles from this one grape, almost any style will work.
The raspberry/bramble flavors that dominate most red Zinfandel
wines somehow seem the perfect "American" match for turkey. One
caution, the top of the line, massive Zinfandels with high alcohol
and inky color may be a little too much to serve throughout the
meal. Save the 15% alcohol "in your face" Zins for after dinner
when it is OK for folks to go to sleep.
White wine
with turkey: Some of us just prefer white wine. This is where
turkey seems to be the most adaptable. Almost any good white will
serve. Stop short, perhaps, from serving sweet dessert wine along
with the food. Crisp, dry European whites have a clean palate-cleansing
quality about them. Alsace Riesling, White Burgundy (a personal
favorite), and most of the modern Italian whites would shine alongside
our traditional holiday dinner. No need to discriminate against
domestic wines here either. Lighter crisper Chardonnays will do
fine. Almost any Sauvignon Blanc will work. Dry Pinot Gris/Pinot
Grigio from Oregon or California will add a mineral touch similar
to that of French White Burgundy.
Champagne
with turkey: What need to elaborate? Top quality dry sparkling
wines, domestic or imported, will grace the meal and add a festive
note no other wine can match.
Back to "Articles"
Originally published in "The Greenville Journal", May 11 - 17,
2001 in "From The Vine" column, author, Richard deBondt.